[21], Together with Peter Habeler, Messner made a second ascent of Gasherbrum I on 10 August 1975, becoming the first man ever to climb more than two eight-thousanders. 4:16 . [21], Messner had already attempted Dhaulagiri in 1977 and 1984, unsuccessfully. His father Josef (1917–1985) was drafted to serve the German army and participated in WW II at the Russian front. He therefore turned his attention to higher mountains, where there was much more ice. Bass ayant lancé le défi de les atteindre tous, il remporte celui-ci le 30 avril 1985 en gravissant l'Everest au cours d'une expédition. En 1989-1990, il réalise la traversée de l'Antarctique (départ de Patriot Hills, arrivée à Mac Murdo en passant par le pôle) avec Arved Fuchs en 92 jours (2 400 km) en tirant eux-mêmes des traîneaux. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast ridge to the summit. Während seine Geschwister im Prinzip alle durchaus bürgerliche Karrieren machten, haderte Messner mit einer solchen Daseinsform. In 1989, Messner led a European expedition to the South Face of the mountain. Reinhold Messner naît le 17 septembre 1944 à Bressanone, dans la province autonome de Bolzano au Trentin-Haut-Adige en Italie. [27] On 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, a museum that unites within one museum the stories of the growth and decline of mountains, culture in the Himalayan region and the history of South Tyrol. In 1970, he was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition, which can be regarded as one of the turning points in Messner's life. En 1987, il traverse à pied de grandes étendues du Bhoutan et du Pamir. La dernière modification de cette page a été faite le 19 août 2020 à 17:57. He was planning on climbing Kangchenjunga first, before tackling Gasherbrum II and the Broad Peak. "Zaha Hadid's MMM Corones museum gazes at the mountains", "Search for a Member; European Parliament", Discovery of remains ends controversy about the death of Reinhold Messner's brother, Reinhold Messner Biography and Interview on American Academy of Achievement, "Golden Plate Awardees of the American Academy of Achievement", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Reinhold_Messner&oldid=990862078, Recipients of the Royal Geographical Society Gold Medal, Official website different in Wikidata and Wikipedia, Articles with unsourced statements from September 2019, Articles with unsourced statements from May 2012, Wikipedia articles needing page number citations from September 2019, Articles needing additional references from October 2017, All articles needing additional references, All articles with vague or ambiguous time, Vague or ambiguous time from September 2019, All articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases, Articles with specifically marked weasel-worded phrases from September 2019, Articles with German-language sources (de), Wikipedia articles with MusicBrainz identifiers, Wikipedia articles with SUDOC identifiers, Wikipedia articles with Trove identifiers, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, First ascent of the unclimbed Rupal Face and first traverse of the mountain by descending along the unexplored Diamir Face with his brother. According to his sister his delivery was difficult as he was a large baby and birth took place during an air raid. [34], Messner was officially a member of South Tyrolean Greens, a regionalist and ecologist political party active only in South Tyrol, who de facto acts as a regional branch of the FdV. With his partner Nena Holdguin, he has a daughter, Làyla Messner, born in 1981. Messner himself did not want to climb any more. [citation needed], Thus Messner became the first person to climb all eight-thousanders. Au terme de l'expédition, il conclut que la légende de « l'abominable homme des neiges » provient d'un véritable animal qui terrifierait les populations locales depuis des générations et qui, selon lui, serait apparenté à l'Ours bleu du Tibet[15]. À partir de cette date, il espace ses ascensions et s'adonne pendant vingt ans à la randonnée pédestre de façon intensive (trekking), ce qui l'amène à traverser de grandes zones désertiques aux conditions climatiques parfois extrêmes. Messner himself asserts, however, that he made a spontaneous decision to descend the Diamir Face together with his brother for reasons of safety. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. [11], Messner has crossed Antarctica on skis, together with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs. He was found dead a short time later. Son père, Josef, enseignant, se montre strict ; c'est lui qui le mène à son premier sommet, le Sass Rigais, à l'âge de cinq ans. Messner was later criticised for having allowed Jäger go back down the mountain alone. C'est à cette époque, alors qu'il se considérait comme un spécialiste de l'escalade, qu'il devient alpiniste professionnel. Premier alpiniste ayant insisté sur l'importance d'une préparation stricte (sports d'endurance, alimentation) avant d'aller affronter les hautes altitudes, son palmarès est impressionnant. [26] As of 2020 it is the world's second highest number of "World's Firsts" held by an individual. He was featured in the 1984 film The Dark Glow of the Mountains by Werner Herzog. Messner was cured of his amoebic liver abscess and then travelled to Gasherbrum II, but could not use the new routes as planned. En 1969, il atteint le mont Blanc par le pilier du Frêney et effectue au Pérou sa première expédition extra-européenne. [citation needed], In the early years immediately after the expedition, there were disputes and lawsuits between Messner and Herrligkoffer, the expedition leader.

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